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Member Profile: Jason B Spencer

Member Since: 2008

Victoria, Australia

Latest Times

Hill Climbs

11 Apr 2012: 1/20 - 13mins 22secs

03 Dec 2011: Tawonga Gap - 20mins 13secs

06 Sep 2011: INVERNESS RD - 8mins 29secs

10 Apr 2011: Mt Baw Baw - 30mins 13secs

02 Apr 2011: Mt Donna Buang - 48mins 59secs

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Circuits

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Saved Courses

Circuits & Hill Climbs saved by this rider:

Australia > Victoria > 1/20 - emerald - devils

Comments

Jason commented on his own time: "2011 Tour of Bright Stage 1. Avg 384W up the climb. Tried to force the pace a bit from the bottom. Attacked and got a group of 4 away after the steep left hander ~7mins in. First 7 riders from peloton covered by only 8 seconds by the top of the climb as race came together a bit in final kilometre. 4 riders from break-away stayed clear."

Jason commented on his own time: "Avg 385W. Wind was ESE @ 25kph"

Jason commented on his own time: "2nd of 5 climbs for the night. Pretty close to max effort. Was very cold. Powertap = 408W, Quarq = 401W. Used both powermeters as quarq has been playing up again...."

Jason commented on his own time: "End of 2011 Baw Baw Classic. Felt ok starting the final climb, but could soon feel the effects of the race on my legs once i hit the steep parts. Got 7th. 4 break-away riders stayed in front of me, but N. Haas probably rode a sub 28minute! and A. Morgan passed me in the final km."

Jason commented on his own time: "Hard solo effort. Was going well first 35mins and the fatigue started to set in the final 5kms. Sprinted the last 200m to try and go sub 49. Avg pwr = 343W."

Forum Posts

06 Aug 2011 6:55 PM posted in Sram red chain slip

Hi. Most likely the High limit screw on the rear derailleur is not adjusted correctly. If you got the bike from a shop then just take back to them and they'll sort it out easy. otherwise if you want to fix it yourself (assuming my diagnosis is right), then a small screw on the derailleur with either H or High written next to it. Just unwind that maybe 1 turn so that the chain runs straight off the sprocket on the jockey wheels (not at an angle) when in that gear. *If you unwind it too far it may be possible for the chain to slip off between the cassette and the frame, scratching the frame so just be careful of that.

27 Jun 2010 8:06 PM posted in The REAL Devil's Elbow Resurfaced

It's a very very good surface. If only more roads could be like that. Will give it a proper crack in a few weeks hopefully.

30 Jul 2009 8:07 PM posted in 2009 Avanti Sprint - Is it a good entry level bike

Compact cranks are definately a plus. I live in a hilly area of Melbourne and used them for the first 18months of cycling 'till they cracked (that's another story) I also took the 11-23 off and put a 12-27 cassette on also. Most ppl would consider this 'hack' gearing but i was racing A grade with that gearing. Definately not a hack but far from pro also. Doesn't make sense to me why so many bikes seem to get sold with standard 53/39 and 11-23 or 25 cassettes when most pros don't train on that gearing. Currently using standard cranks (don't train without a 27 though) but steal my old-mans compacts for 1 or 2 hillier races to keep the cadence up. On the steep stuff i still wish i had the 34 to pedal. My dads Shimano R600 cranks shift almost as good as my dura-ace cranks (pretty much perfect) so if they're set up well the extra gap between gears shouldn't be an issue. If you ride only flat roads standards are probably better, but if you have any hilly terrain and are looking at getting into the sport i'd definately lean toward compact cranks. Jason

25 Mar 2009 2:52 PM posted in lights

lights called ayups are great. very long running times, very small and light weight also. The small bracket which is cable tied to bars i just leave on. might take it off for state opens. You buy them straight from the guys that designed / make them and it's an aussie company. www.ayup.com.au They're also a bit cheaper than alot of competitors and i use them pitch black on bike paths or on the road through winter with lights mounted on helmet and bars. Have descended down the dandenongs near melbourne in complete darkness at practically full speed with these lights on and felt completely safe. They also get lots of comments from pedestrians and other road users on how bright they are.

27 Oct 2008 10:15 PM posted in tyres

My family has been using Michelins for a while now, I was originally using pro Race 2's and they worked really well, very few punctures, maybe 1 per set which would last 3-4,000km 'till i got new ones 'cos of tread wear. They grip really well also however make noises when cornering hard which the new Pro Race 3's don't which lets me go harder through corners. since beginning of this year i have been using Pro race 3's and have only had 1 puncture, and that was when using lightweight tubes. Another set of tyres if your looking for better tyre life i definately recommend if ur not racing is Michelin Kryllion Carbons, I could descend equally as quick on these and never got a puncture in the one set i used. Also hardly had any cuts in the tyres. i'd still use them but since i'm racing i swap pro 3's once they've been worn a bit off my race wheels onto training wheels. so i now use pro 3's for everything. I've never had problems with punctures but it may have something to do with where i ride also.

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