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Member Profile: Garrin Ross

Member Since: 2008

South Australia, Australia

Latest Times

Hill Climbs

07 Nov 2004: Norton Summit - 18mins 52secs

04 Oct 2004: Corkscrew Road - 13mins 56secs

04 Oct 2004: Ansteys Hill - 12mins 29secs

19 Sep 2004: Windy Point - 13mins 22secs

12 Sep 2004: Windy Point - 13mins 38secs

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Comments

Garrin commented on his own time: "First attempt"

Garrin commented on his own time: "First attempt"

Forum Posts

21 Jul 2009 10:37 PM posted in Wheel Size?

Hi Brett, hope to meet you 'out there' someday to have another good laugh about this forum string, some classic stuff here and thanks for the humour - I'll keep a lookout for a Trek 5.2 Madone, maybe with Zipp wheels on it. If you ever see a rare Ritchey BreakAway Ti/C road bike, then it's probably me. I'm certainly no wheel expert, but add the following points: - There's no perfect all round wheel. If you want just one wheelset, you'll have to decide on a limited combo of aero, weight, sexy looks, strength, cross-wind effect and price (and live with the disadvantages). - Aero wheels are best for fast flat rides (time trialing, crits, etc.) but poor for climbing (due to extra weight) and scary in strong gusty cross winds. Also can be a PITA with valve extensions. - Light wheels are best for climbing but usually have poor aerodyamics due to low rim profile (act like parachutes at high speed) and some manufactures sacrifice strength to save some weight - ultimately resulting in ongoing broken spokes after some time (although I'm sure the published low weight helps their sales figures). - Carbon wheels requires special brake pads (maybe a pain if you swap between aluminium and carbon wheels). - Tubulars are best for racing (it's all over if you get a flat anyway), but clinchers are best for training and general use. - Good 'all-rounder' wheels have 35-40 mm deep rims with aero spokes and weigh in around 1500 grams. Look for a low spoke count on the front wheel but more spokes on the rear wheel (for strength where it's needed). If you're going to get into crits, you really should consider two wheelsets - one for training and those special ones for racing (maybe keep your existing wheels for weekday training when you don't want the bling). Don't under-estimate the added psychological advantage of changing to your special wheels on race day! Another option is Reynolds DV46 C wheels - I ride with a couple of guys that have these and love them. Don't look as sexy as the Zipp and SRAM options but very good wheels. At the money you're planning to spend, all wheels should be strong and have good hubs. If you're a tech-head then Roues Artisanales is an excellent French website focusing on high end bike tech and wheelbuilds. Their Great Wheel Test 2008 can be found at: Part 0 - Intro : http://www.rouesartisanales.com/article-15441821.html Part 1 - Aerodynamics : http://www.rouesartisanales.com/article-15505311.html Part 2 - Inertia : http://www.rouesartisanales.com/article-15988284.html Part 3 - Stiffness : http://www.rouesartisanales.com/article-23159755.html Part 4 - Bearing Resistance : Not yet published Part 5 - Conclusion : Not yet published These articles provide some of the best wheel tech data and testing that I've seen out there. BTW, who gives a sh1t what you look like at the cafe, as long as you have a bike that you love and it beckons you to ride it (without putting you into financial debt).

05 Jul 2009 4:38 PM posted in Computers

I used to have one of these on my MTB about 7 years ago. Recommend you spoil yourself and upgrade to 2.4 GHz HRM c/w cadence, speed, altitude, datalogging, etc. so you can download rides to your PC, training diary, etc. Its a whole new world once you've experienced it! Any you'd never go back to a cheap bike computer ;-)

05 Jul 2009 3:01 PM posted in Computers

Sorry, assumed your computer also had HRM functions. Yes, it is strange that a simple wired bike computer plays up when in an environment with high density "electrical noise". What brand & model of bike computer do you have? I assume it has a long cable rear wheel speed sensor to work on a trainer - if so the cable could be acting as an antenna. I've never had any problems with 2.4 GHz wireless units (Polar CS600 or Garmin 705) with rear wheel speed sensors in a spin class.

05 Jul 2009 2:32 PM posted in Computers

Most probably is caused by interference from other heart rate monitors. Would help if you advised the brand/model of your HRM to determine what sort of wireless communications is used between chest strap and computer (ie: 5 kHz or 2.4 GHz).

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